![]() ![]() My impression, too, is that the yellow stuff is some sort of residue left by PLA. I had a similar experience, except that I cleaned with acetone instead of alcohol. Since then every print is kind of "welded" to the bed. The microfiber towel was yellowish afterward - so I thought that this must have been printing residues. I don't know what other ingredients Creality uses in their carborundum coating or whether they might be susceptible to solvents, but I'd be surprised if the alcohol you used did any real damage. They make router bits and end mills and the teeth of table saw blades out of it, and people clean all of those with much stronger solvents than isopropyl alcohol. Silicon carbide is tough stuff: it's a 9.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, just half a notch below diamond. And also tends to become less of a sticky mess than hairspray. This is great for knowing when it is good to start printing again. The reason I like the colored glue, as it reconstitutes it activates the cobalt chloride and turns purple again. The only downside is a slight texture to the print and not glossy glass flat. Once the glue is tacky again, the print will pop right off. ![]() The print and the glue will wick the water under the print, and reconstitute the glue. When you use these, if a print is stuck, you just need to spritz some water around the print. But, Elmer's glue sticks that go on purple and dry clear. With blue tape, I tend to add 2-3 ☌ to the bed temp. It makes for great adhesion, and also easy removal of super stuck prints, and you can just peel it off the build plate. If you don't need the glass flat finish of printing directly to glass, I always use blue tape. But, usually, for me, fall between 0.18-0.22 mm.īlue painters tape. Cura) let you specify the height of your first layer, and I have found that slowly incrementing up from 0.16 mm by 0.2 mm to find the sweet spot of adhesion without warping. I have had similar issues, and I have learned three tricks: Today I also tried a spool of brand new PETG, with the following recommended settings: 240 ☌ nozzle temperature, 80 ☌ print bed - but the problem stayed the same.Īm I doing something wrong? Did I destroy the "Carborundum" coating (silicon carbide) of the glass plate?
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |